Cruising Alaska, day two: Departing San Francisco on Star Princess

We woke up to Star Princess dominating the view from our hotel room. She docked around 7 a.m., and I can only imagine how hard the crew worked to turn everything around for us to board at 1 p.m. Starting our day with that serendipitous view was not only a fun surprise but also added excitement to the anticipation of embarkation day. Yesterday I recommended the Best Western Tuscan Inn based on its upgraded Kimpton ownership and what we assumed would be a convenient location. Today I can certainly recommend the hotel as the perfect location for a pre-cruise extension. Though we have a friend who lives in the city and drove us and our luggage to the cruise terminal, we could’ve walked if necessary.

However, first things first: brunch. As planned, we headed back to the market in the Ferry Building. The historic F-Line street car we rode today was originally operated in Boston. Today it transported us to Mijita Cocina Mexicana. At the far eastern end of the market, Mijita serves breakfast all day (important information for readers who, like me, would happily eat breakfast fare for every meal). I had the breakfast burrito and while it was good, it lacked spice. Between my childhood spent in Southern California and the outstanding Mexican food we’re spoiled with in Salt Lake City, I wanted more depth of flavor, kick, something. Regardless, it’s a beautiful space and the prices are reasonable.

I enjoy taking photos of markets and do so all over the world. I find it fascinating to learn about a culture through the food. After a quick photo walk — artisan olive oils, cheesemongers, bakers, butchers, flowers, fruit, sensory overload — I purchased sweet goodies from Miette Patisserie (far western end of the market). With those tucked in my bag, we were on our way.

Looking up at the beautiful architecture in San Francisco's Ferry Building.

Two caption options: 1) Say Cheese!; or 2) This is my heaven.

Mijita Cocina Mexicana, at the east end of the Ferry Building, serves breakfast fare all day.

Authentic ambiance (with less than authentic food) at Mijita Cocina Mexicana.

The boarding experience at the cruise terminal could not have run more smoothly. It was as quick as can be expected with that many people in one place at one time. It was professional, friendly and stress-free. Everyone was helpful, from the athletic curbside porters hefting endless piles of luggage, to the army of smiling grandpas in red ties and white fedoras directing foot traffic.

When you’re online at home finalizing your Princess cruise details, you not only print a boarding pass but also a series of luggage tags that identify your stateroom. As long as you arrive at the cruise terminal with your bags tagged appropriately, you have nothing to worry about with the check-in process. Step aboard, relax in your room, explore the ship and her many features, and your luggage will arrive in your stateroom sometime in the next hour or so.

We were welcomed to our Star Princess Aloha Deck stateroom with fresh flowers, champagne, chocolate covered strawberries and a thoughtful note from Princess. Our steward and his supervisor also stopped by to say hello and explain their roles in making our cruise experience enjoyable.

We enjoyed the treats on our balcony and took in the views of Alcatraz on one hand and the iconic hilly skyline of San Francisco on the other. I also took this time to scope out the toiletries, a telling factor for me in any lodging experience. Princess did not disappoint. The products provided were from Princess Cruises’ Lotus Spa line and included the standard lotion, shampoo/conditioner and bar soap. There was also eucalyptus body wash, gel eye mask (waiting for me in my mini-fridge at the moment), linen spray, exfoliating loofah, emery board and two SPF 30 lip balms. Going beyond the expected toiletries was a nice touch.

Our Aloha Deck balcony stateroom allows us to have one queen or two twin beds.

Champagne and strawberries on the balcony...don't mind if we do. Welcome aboard!

Other nice touches included plush robes and slippers, room service breakfast (no additional charge) delivered at a time of our choosing, fresh fruit delivered each afternoon per indicated preferences (also no additional charge), and turn down service with the proverbial chocolates on our pillows. Attention to detail matters to me, and so far Princess has done it right.

The highlight of our day was sailing under the Golden Gate bridge. It was a memorable way to say goodbye to San Francisco and to kick off this adventure. The decks were full of windblown passengers, clicking camera shutters, and cheering as we cleared the underside of the bridge.

The notorious Alcatraz Island as soon from the Star Princess.

Goodbye, San Francisco. Sailing away...and leaving our hearts. 

Sailing under the Golden Gate was a memorable way to kick off our journey.

We enjoyed dinner in the Capri dining room with three different couples at a communal table. Jackie and Ron have been on seven cruises, most of those with Princess. They spoke highly of the consistent level of customer service. I’ve sailed only once before with Princess (Mexico in 2010), and my experience aligned with their praise. All Princess personnel consider themselves to be “hosts,” and that shows.

Tomorrow is a full day at sea, and I will spend time exploring and photographing the ship. I’m also reading two books that you may find interesting if you’re considering an Alaskan itinerary, so I’ll share those resources in a later post.

I hope you’re enjoying your virtual vacation. You can follow along on each day of the adventure through my Live Voyage Report landing page. If you're interested in following other Live Voyage Reports, visit The Avid Cruiser website to see where the team is exploring now!

Bon voyage...and love,
me


This article was originally published on the Avid Cruiser Live Voyage Report website.

Cruising Alaska, Day One: Pre-cruise Adventures in San Francisco

San Francisco is impossibly charming. It doesn’t matter how many times I visit, and I visit regularly, I fall more deeply in love with her each time. The Avid Cruiser’s 2014 Alaska Guide lists a number of considerations for the selection of your ideal departure port. Truth be told, once I saw San Francisco on the list of possibilities, my search was over before it even began. San Francisco is not only a short (and typically affordable) 90-minute direct flight from my home base in Salt Lake City but also allows for three full days at sea while we make our way up up up to the last frontier. This was appealing to me as a way to balance four days in a row packed with excursions and adventures on shore.

My friend Heather and I chose to come to San Francisco the day before we board Star Princess for two reasons. First, we wanted time to revisit a few of our favorite spots, which I’ll share with you below. We also flew in early because, in my opinion, there are few things worse than rushed, stressed travel. If and when possible, I prefer to pad my arrival and departures days. This luxury often adds costs to the trip, but for my money, enjoying my trip well-rested, calm, cool and collected … is priceless. It turns out that padding was a particularly wise strategy this time around. Our flight to SFO out of SLC was delayed. Twice.

Delta’s on-time departure rating out of SLC is 96 percent, so the delays were particularly surprising. The fault, it turns out, was weather issues in SFO this morning. While the delay allowed for a leisurely breakfast at a favorite local restaurant in Salt Lake City, by the time we landed and reached the cruise terminal, we would’ve had been cutting it close — had we been boarding Star Princess today. We were glad the most pressing item on our agenda today was where to find lunch after checking into the hotel. Arriving a day early proved to be particularly beneficial for our cruise.

We did not purchase the hotel extension and ship transfer offered by Princess. We chose to book on our own and ended up in a lovely Best Western turned Kimpton property. We questioned our decision when we booked “Best Western – The Tuscan,”  but the price and neighborhood were right. We thought at the very least we’d collect a funny memory in a cheesy theme hotel. Not at all. We didn’t realize it was a beautiful Kimpton property until we checked in and the concierge mentioned the complimentary wine reception and we saw dog treats in the lobby, both Kimpton trademarks. The hotel was perfect for our one night, and it was situated near the cruise terminal.

We were pleasantly surprised to learn Kimpton took over the Best Western and added their iconic flourishes.

Our hotel is one block off The Embarcadero, and our afternoon goal was to ride the California cable car line to Grace Cathedral on Nob Hill. The most logical lunch spot between Point A and Point B: The Ferry Building Marketplace via the iconic imported F-Line street cars. The car we stepped onto was originally operated in Mexico City.

A foodie’s paradise, the infamous Ferry Market is hyper local, hyper fresh, and a flagship destination in a city filled with endless foodie destinations. We grabbed a quick bite at Out the Door, an Asian eatery, where I now heartily endorse the pork dumplings.

Sitting at the top of Market Street, the world-famous foodie destination, San Francisco's Ferry Building. 

Quick. Fresh. Healthy. Out the Door is a new favorite in San Francisco's Ferry Building Marketplace.

After lunch, we were back on the cable cars. I will make a bold claim in advising you to ignore the Powell-Mason and Powell-Hyde lines altogether. The California line is far more residential and filled with local commuters. The other lines go to and from Fisherman’s Wharf and the Visitor Information Center downtown on Market Street, so you can imagine the difference. You will not only stand in long lines on the Powell cars but also be packed in tight with tourists stacked two deep along the outer edges. If that’s your goal and the end point destinations appeal to you, enjoy yourself. If your goal is enjoy steep hills, understand the mechanics of the historic cars, experience the flow of normal life in the city — and meet gregarious operators who routinely chat with their friends in cars driving by (seriously, without fail they always know some dude at every other stop light) — the California line is for you.

The less-touristy California cable care line is the way to go.

We reached our destination, Grace Cathedral, an Episcopal Church that markets itself as “a house of prayer for all people, without exception.” It was once Grace Church, built in the Gold Rush of 1849. It was destroyed in the 1906 fire/earthquake and rebuilt in the French Gothic style between 1928-1964. The giant front doors are modeled on Ghilberti’s doors to the baptistery of the Duomo in Florence, Italy. Having experienced that work first hand, the replica at Grace brought back fond memories.

The cathedral holds no religious significance for me, but is certainly a sacred, meditative space. In fact, the labyrinth is the first place I visit in the city every time I come. There was a two-year period a while ago when I was in the city about twice a month. Without fail, my feet touched down in San Francisco and you would find me on the California line to the Grace labyrinth. Labyrinths are a form of moving meditation found in traditions and cultures all over the world. You walk in with a question, you walk out with an answer. You walk in with a problem, you walk out with a new perspective. It’s a beautiful process if you let yourself fully engage with it. The Grace Cathedral is a hidden gem in an otherwise bustling city. You’d never realize you’re just one block above the always chaotic Chinatown neighborhood.

Built in the French Gothic style, Grace Cathedral is perched atop San Francisco's Nob Hill.

Grace Cathedral is "a house of prayer for all people."

Graced With Light, an installation by Artist in Residence Anne Patterson, involves 20 miles of hand-assembled ribbon.

There is an exterior labyrinth available to the public all day every day. The indoor labyrinth is available for meditation when the cathedral is open. 

We decided to walk to North Beach (the Italian quarter and our dinner destination) because the hills were in our favor. Don’t let the maps of San Francisco fool you. “Just three blocks that way … ” means nothing without knowing the grade of the street. You may be in for an intense urban hiking experience if you don’t clarify.

After enjoying a bit of time Instagramming and the like in the beautiful Washington Square park area, we revisited Caffe DeLucchi. The last time we were in San Francisco together, we stumbled in on accident and dumb luck. Our return was intentional. I had the house-made spinach ravioli with gorgonzola cream sauce and I recommend it without hesitation.

San Francisco has many parks hidden amongst its bustling streets. Washington Square in North Beach is one of the most picturesque.

Caffe DeLucchi is a must when visiting San Francisco's Italian quarter, North Beach. 

Full of pasta and satiated memories, we made our way back to our hotel. Tomorrow we’ll have brunch at the Ferry Building (yes, again) before boarding the Star Princess.

I hope you’re enjoying your virtual vacation. You can follow along on each day of the adventure through my Live Voyage Report landing page. If you're interested in following other Live Voyage Reports, visit The Avid Cruiser website to see where the team is exploring now!

Bon voyage...and love,
me


This article was originally published on the Avid Cruiser Live Voyage Report website. 

Alaska's Inside Passage on Star Princess

Photo courtesy of Princess Cruises

“Up north there’s a land without fences. Animals outnumber people, sunlight shines at midnight, and nature reigns. Life is different. This northern frontier still boasts pristine landscapes, majestic wildlife, and a coastline that is one of the most enthralling waterways in the world” (Princess Cruises). I’d been craving a wild travel experience for some time. Not booming nightclubs and a mysterious tattoo that appears in the morning, but wild as in true wilderness. I’d been craving open spaces, land untouched by humankind, and silence. Los Angeles, by way of comparison, has a population of 3.9 million people. Alaska, a frontier spanning 1,400 miles by 2,400 miles, has a total population just under 732,000. In other words, perfect. On 23 May 2014, the Star Princess departed from San Francisco and sailed north toward this pure wilderness. The ship was originally built in 2002 and then refurbished in 2011. When she’s at full capacity, the Star Princess carries 2,600 passengers and 1,100 crew members within her 17 decks. Eighty percent of all outside cabins have private balconies, including my stateroom, which allowed for breathtaking vistas as we sailed through scenery like the Tracy Arm Fjord.

Tracy Arm Fjord, Alaska

In case you missed it, The Avid Cruiser recently published their 2014 Alaska Guide, a comprehensive article designed to help you book your ideal vacation to the 49th state. Since I traveled to Alaska in May, on one of the earliest itineraries offered by Princess Cruises, it’s worth noting that some people do avoid the shoulder season. However, this Avid Cruiser article may convince you of the benefits of exploring early and/or late in Alaska’s sailing season. Princess Cruises also hosts a website called “Why Alaska,” orienting travelers to the many possibilities of this potentially-overwhelming destination.

This was my first time to Alaska, but I suspect many readers have experienced her beauty before and I welcome your comments. I booked a shore excursion in each port, as did my friend Heather. We took two of our excursions together, but we booked different adventures in the other two ports; meaning you get the benefit of a review for six different excursion offerings. Also – as a bonus to all the Alaska coverage – I’ve enjoyed a longtime love affair with San Francisco. We flew in a day early in order to share with you some of my favorite pieces of the City by the Bay.

I posted every night, recapping the adventures of the day. Follow along using my Live Voyage Report landing page. Enjoy your virtual vacation!

love,
me


This article was originally published on The Avid Cruiser Live Voyage Report website.

You are because you say you are.

I recently wrote about a dream coming true. Traveling to Alaska (bucket list destination) courtesy of Princess Cruises (hello, press credentials) writing and photographing (numero uno dream job of all time) for The Avid Cruiser (a respected mentor and friend). It doesn't get more exciting than this. I've been blogging and traveling and writing and wanderlusting and photographing and dreaming for years. At times I wanted all of that energy to lead to something and at other times I just kept going because it makes me happy. At times I pursued the goal with specific intentions and at other times I ignored it entirely, going about my normal life. This ebb and flow, this evolving dance with what I really want out of my life, has been going on for what feels like forever. Now here I am. Even though it could seem simple, this one assignment, I still believe it's an absolute manifestation. It feels surreal. That's actually what I want to talk about, the surreal nature of it all. This thought has been stewing for a while now: You are because you say you are. Jen Sincero, Wayne Dyer, and I have something to say about the power of owning it.

Owning it. No apologies. No excuses. Taking a proactive role in defining the life you want to live. 

Ralph Grizzle (a.k.a. The Avid Cruiser) recently posted about the three journeys covered on the Live Voyage Report site in May. When I read his words, I couldn't take them in. It felt like an out of body experience. Who is this woman he's talking about, anyway? 

A chance meeting a couple of years ago resulted in our welcoming aboard Gail Jessen. Gail is a Salt Lake City based writer who will be reporting for us from Star Princess as she and the ship make their way from San Francisco to Skagway — and back. Gail wrote an engaging piece that will tell you who she is and how she became a travel writer. You will find her post here. For inspiration alone, it is recommended reading.

A Salt Lake City based writer? How she...became a travel writer? Inspiring? I stared at the screen. Agape. Holy shit, you guys. I'm a writer based in Salt Lake City. That's me he's talking about. I'm a writer. I write. I'm writing. I'm in Salt Lake City and I write, like writers do. I'm a travel writer. I write about travel. Out in the world, while traveling, I write. I'm a writer of travel stories based in Salt Lake City. My reaction was a bit like...Bob's.

I'd say printing a box of oh-so-official business cards - to hand out on the ship and to family/friends - is owning it.

One particular point from Sincero's book, You Are a Badass, comes to mind a lot lately. I'm paraphrasing, but she basically says: You want to be a photographer...but you don't take pictures. What sense does that make? Conversely, you take a lot of photos and it's a significant passion for you, but you say you're not a photographer? Why the hell not? What's a photographer then? Someone who takes pictures. So go do that. Say you're a photographer. Aren't you? Then go do it some more. You are whatever you say you are simply because you said it...then did something about it. She writes:

Set your intention, work steadily in the direction you want to go, do all that you know how to do, believe it’s here and available to you, be diligent about how you speak, think and behave, have faith in yourself and The Universe, and then...drum roll please, this is the super important part...breathe, let it go, fuggetaboutit, give it some damn room to come in. 

While I read Sincero over a year ago, I've recently been making my way through Wayne Dyer's newest book, I Can See Clearly Now. I tackle bits and pieces here and there, mostly letting the new paradigms settle in between readings. It's the kind of a book you take your time with and he's that kind of author. What's percolating to the top is his discussion of "I AM..." The phrase "I am" is one of the most profound, transformative phrases we can possibly utter. We literally create our reality with that phrase. Think about it. It's so simple, but it's such a game changer. We can unfairly turn "I'm having a rough day and lost my temper for a moment" into "I am an angry person." We can also then take a proactive role in defining the life we want to live by turning "I like to write and maintain a blog" into "I am a travel writer."

I AM. Sit with it for a minute. Think of all the ways you're currently shaping your reality with I AM statements (conscious or out loud or not). Think of all the ways you could shift your future reality by intentionally focusing on the power of "I AM."

I'll kick it off: I am a travel writer based in Salt Lake City.

Love,
me

This post is dedicated to Jo and Elizabeth, two amazing women who inspire me...and who I've never actually met. Through the magic that is Instagram and, coincidentally, an online photography course, we found each other. Without saying much - a double-tap photo like here, a Facebook comment there - we've connected and we just get it. This is for them. 

Sailing Alaska + Writing for The Avid Cruiser

I met The Avid Cruiser as one should expect to meet him, on a ship in an exotic locale. My friend Kris and I were sailing with Viking River Cruises up the blue Danube, hopping from one fabled Christmas market to the next. Ralph Grizzle and I ended up in the ship's empty dining room at the same time, and proceeded to have a conversation that I've since realized was one of the most powerful catalysts I've ever experienced. Our topics ranged from the casual (work, climate, favorite travel destinations, lost luggage), to the provocative (our love of socialism, creativity, vagabond souls, life in Denmark, and insatiable wanderlust). Near the end of our lunch, I rudely pulled out my iPhone to instagram a beautiful dessert. Naturally. Once the conversation turned to mobile photography, and we connected to each other's Instagram feeds, the flame was officially lit.

Exploring Regensburg, Germany with Kris (left) in 2012

You see, I'd been timidly flirting with the idea that my life (and identity, if I'm honest) no longer needed to be defined by a stressful 9-5 j.o.b. I'd been toying with the notion that creativity was no longer a luxury, but a state of being I needed to achieve and maintain daily. Once I got home I started hosting a monthly brunch + book group dedicated entirely to exploring the concept of happiness. I was starting to say it out loud...  I'd finally admitted to myself the exciting, terrifying, seemingly impossible truth: I'm at my best when I'm in motion. I'm in a state of centered bliss when I'm untethered. I need to travel. It's not an option or a nice thing to do a couple times a year if I can save my pennies and vacation days. It's a profound ache that hash tagging "wanderlust" on a few Facebook photos doesn't begin to satiate.

Enter one of the most successful digital nomads I've ever met. Ralph had no idea he was changing my life.

He questioned me a number of times throughout the trip: "Why don't you do this professionally?" And "These photos are legitimately good. This is something you could pursue." And "Tell me where you work again? Why?" And eventually "I'm happy to help you make contact with..."

Almost 18 months and hundreds of gmails later, I'm sailing to Alaska courtesy of Princess Cruises, writing and photographing my adventures for Ralph's Avid Cruiser Live Voyage Report website. I don't need to wax poetic about dreams coming true - it feels indulgent - but do let me say this once: This opportunity is, in the most literal sense, a dream coming true. I am profoundly grateful.

So here we go! Alaska. America's last great frontier. On 05/22/2014 I set out from San Francisco and you'll be able to follow the adventure every night as I post on the Live Voyage Report website (bookmark it now). You can also follow the adventures in real time on my Instagram and Twitter feeds. In the meantime, drool with me over this Alaska Pinterest board curated by Princess Cruises. I mean, seriously.

Love,
me

Banner created by Aaron Saunders, creator of From the Deck Chair, and co-creator of + contributor to Avid Cruiser's LVR.